For this Nordic culinary trip in early summer, we drove from Copenhagen to the Österlen area in the south of Sweden, which took about two hours. The journey didn’t feel particularly long due to stops at various scenic spots along the way. Crossing the bridge from Copenhagen into Sweden felt seamless, as if all of Scandinavia was connected, without the abruptness of entering another country. This May was particularly fortunate, with the weather in the Nordic countries being exceptionally pleasant and the temperatures just right. Driving towards southern Sweden, we were surrounded by vibrant yellow rapeseed fields, with picturesque and dreamy pastoral landscapes that were truly refreshing. When we saw sea from afar, we knew we were close to Vyn Restaurant.
This visit to Daniel Berlin was not only about the new location but also about his establishment of a boutique hotel here. Although the number of rooms is limited, they are extremely comfortable, embodying the minimalist Nordic style. Additionally, he has opened a small tavern next door. As he mentioned, they purchase whole animals, using different parts in various restaurants. This approach maximizes the use of ingredients and reduces waste, embodying a highly sustainable development concept that I greatly admire. Even though the restaurant only opens four days a week, you can still stay here during other times, enjoying the pastoral scenery and simple yet delicious meals at the tavern.
@Jocelyn华姐的Tastytrip YouTube
Originally, Daniel Berlin’s restaurant closed in September 2020 due to family reasons, causing quite a stir in the culinary world. However, three years later, the news of its reopening at the end of last year (2023) was a major event for food lovers worldwide. Many eagerly anticipated the return, as the previous Daniel Berlin restaurant had a very friendly and intimate feel, being small and cozy. People highly regard Daniel Berlin not only for his exquisite culinary skills but also for his sincerity and authenticity, which you can feel when interacting with him.
We asked Daniel Berlin why he chose this new location. He said that when he saw the place, he knew it was the one. The main reason was the scenery, being close to the sea, which had a magical feel. Compared to his previous restaurant, the new location offers a surreal experience. When we arrived, the sea was an exceptionally vibrant blue, contrasting sharply with the yellow dandelion fields we saw along the way. The sky was almost cloudless, creating a breathtakingly beautiful scene.
Vyn, run by Chef Daniel Berlin, aims to showcase the cuisine and culture of southern Sweden while practicing sustainable development. The restaurant is housed in a converted farmhouse. Upon entering the garden, the tavern is on the right, and the hotel reception is on the left. Further ahead is the restaurant entrance. Due to the farmhouse conversion, the restaurant features a high ceiling of two to three stories. Upon entering, you see a lounge area where you can sit and have a drink, facing the open kitchen. Further inside is the main dining room, with stunning views. As the restaurant’s name “View” suggests, the large windows offer a panoramic view of the southern Swedish sea. The sea’s color changes over time, which is truly captivating.
Our group chose a private room on the second floor, which also has a large window overlooking the outside scenery and offering a view of the entire lounge. Although the sea view from the main dining area on the first floor is more magnificent, the private dining room’s independent kitchen allows guests to observe the final cooking steps up close and interact with the chefs, making the experience more personal.
Berlin’s menu focuses heavily on seasonality and local ingredients. His innovative dishes are not only visually stunning but each has a unique story and cooking philosophy. For example, Kalix löjrom, caramelised celeriac & verbena: the celeriac is cut into small cubes and caramelized, seasoned with verbena, and cooked to a marmalade-like consistency. It is topped with snow-white crème fraîche and plump, orange vendace roe, offering a rich, layered taste that promises a delightful dining experience.
Another signature dish is the Warmed king crab, Linderöds pork cheek & spring herbs. A crispy tart shell is filled with king crab meat and covered with a translucent, fatty slice of pork cheek, then seasoned with spring herbs. This dish perfectly balances the fresh taste of seafood and the rich flavor of pork cheek.
The shell of the langoustine is served alone, and when opened, it reveals langoustine claws and roasted beetroot slices. This dish uniquely combines the flavors of langoustine and beetroot, providing a rich texture and taste.
The creative dish with five types of eggs includes lungfish roe, duck egg, scallop roe, cod roe, and chicken egg, each treated and presented differently. The base is cured lungfish roe, topped with brined duck egg yolk, covered with “bread” made from scallop roe, drizzled with a green sauce made from cod roe and nettles, and finished with a white foam made from chicken egg white and brown butter, offering a delicate and smooth texture.
Egg. egg. egg. egg & egg
The hot & cold scallop is seared golden on one side, forming a crispy crust while keeping the other side raw. The surface is covered with ice-cold metal during cooking to make one side maintain raw. The perfect “half-cooked” center is soaked in a sauce made from dill and sugar kelp. The combination of hot and cold, crispy and tender textures creates a delightful contrast.
White asparagus is steamed and paired with white currant gel and sunflower seed paste at the bottom. The sauce is made from fjällko cream, produced by a rare breed of cattle in the Swedish mountains. The langoustine tail is delicately poached in brown butter and paired with a sauce made from brown butter and red currant, topped with a foam made from brown butter, rose, and magnolia leaves.
The star dish of the evening: Poached quail, canola shoots & truffle. The quail is lightly poached and then aged in solid fat before being marinated overnight in crème fraîche. The acidity of the crème fraîche tenderizes the meat protein, making it more tender and flavorful. The marinated quail is glazed with black truffle and served with white asparagus and canola shoots. The quail is juicy and tender, sweet and rich, paired with the bittersweet white asparagus, creating a heavenly taste. The only regret is wanting more, but moderation is key, and this moment of refreshing the palate is etched in memory.
Next up is the sourdough bread with a crispy crust, chewy and tangy interior, creating a perfect contrast in texture and flavor. Paired with soft butter, which gently melts on the warm bread, it creates a harmonious blend of tang and creaminess.
The second main course, milk-fed lamb cooked over the fire, has a golden crust and tender, juicy meat, accompanied by morels and green asparagus, covered in a sauce made from lamb milk and bones. Underneath are lamb sweetbreads, tongue, and neck, a familiar flavor for our Chinese palate, rich but not greasy, with the doneness of different parts being impressive.
The rhubarb dessert has a base of pastry cream with salted meringue, topped with rose-red rhubarb compote, paired with milk ice cream rippled with rose, and lastly some bird cherry blossom foam. The meal was nearly flawless, not only delicious but also heartwarming with skillful craftsmanship.
In the conversation with Chef Daniel Berlin, he mentioned his goal of creating a place that represents southern Sweden, showcasing the region’s natural beauty and culture. The new location of Vyn, close to the sea, allows guests to better enjoy the moment and experience more natural beauty. The dramatic and beautiful baltic sea immerses guests in nature, making the experience unique and profound.
The chef recalled that he had no interest in cooking in his early years until he saw the passion and teamwork in the kitchen during an internship at school. This first encounter with the charm of cooking made him fall in love with the profession. He emphasized that teamwork and respect for ingredients are key to his success.
The chef also explained why he set up a Food and Wine Bar and boutique hotel in the restaurant. This approach not only reduces food waste but also provides a place for locals to visit anytime. He enjoys the complementary relationship between the restaurants, believing it allows better use of different parts of whole animals, offering high-quality dishes.
Running a restaurant in the countryside comes with challenges, such as a lack of entertainment and guests needing to make a special trip. However, Daniel Berlin believes the extra effort to reach the restaurant raises guests’ expectations, prompting the team to provide top-level service. This sense of responsibility drives him to continuously improve and strengthens the restaurant overall. Berlin’s culinary philosophy is to cook food directly on-site, hoping guests feel the food is made for them rather than pre-prepared. He focuses on using high-quality local ingredients while ensuring sustainability. For him, the best compliment is when guests want to return.
Daniel Berlin
Before the pandemic, many liked to compare Fäviken in northern Sweden and Daniel Berlin in southern Sweden. Interestingly, their only commonality was being in the same country and both holding two Michelin stars at the time. Their culinary styles differed greatly, but their emphasis on terroir was similar. These were the two most important destination restaurants in Sweden at the time. Magnus Nilsson published several books that I still treasure (such as Fäviken’s eponymous book), rich in philosophy and modesty, while Daniel Berlin was emotionally friendly and approachable. Both restaurants highly valued the connection between dishes and land, making them worth visiting at least once in a lifetime. Unfortunately, Fäviken closed in 2019 as planned, and Daniel Berlin ceased operations the following year due to family reasons. With the closure of several iconic restaurants, 2020 was a dim moment for Swedish gastronomy.
However, only seven months after Vyn’s opening, Daniel Berlin has regained two Michelin stars, marking a triumphant return to the culinary world. Vyn is not just a place offering enchanting food but also a dreamland where guests can completely relax and enjoy nature and cuisine, making life feel wonderful.
Daniel Berlin infuses his soul into every dish, creating a dining experience that feels like a dream from which you never want to wake.
Photo: Peray Hsiao/instagram@vynfoodandwinebar/amazon.com
