Stepping into the Michelin two-star Spanish restaurantrespiración in Kanazawa feels like entering a heartfelt shonen anime, complete with laughter, tears, and camaraderie. This remarkable establishment is the creation of three chefs—Keisuke Yagi, Tatsuro Ume, and their lifelong friend Yusuke Kitagawa—whose shared dreams began at the age of six. Their hobbies, passions, and even their ultimate goal aligned: to become chefs. Over two decades later, they ventured to Spain together to hone their culinary skills at the world’s top kitchens. Returning to their hometown in Ishikawa Prefecture, they infused their cuisine with the bounty of nature, bringing new vitality to the land they hold dear.
Nestled in a traditional machiya flanked by two modern structures,respiración bridges tradition and innovation. Inside, the chefs meticulously handle every ingredient, their every move echoing a philosophy rooted in local culture yet boldly looking toward the future. The soul of this restaurant lies not just in its exquisite dishes but in the extraordinary 38-year friendship and shared dreams of its three chefs—a story as inspiring as it is heartwarming.
“The name ‘respiración’ was a joint decision among the three of us,” explained Chef Yagi. They wanted a name that held deep meaning and symbolized their culinary philosophy. Ultimately, they chose the Spanish word for “breath.”
“When a tomato is plucked from the vine, its breath stops. What follows is a journey of transformation as we chefs bring it new life through cooking. The dish is then presented to our guests, and when they savor it, the energy becomes part of their vitality, returning to life in the form of breath,” Yagi said, his voice filled with reverence for nature and its cycles.
Yagi admitted. “without them, respiración would not exist.”
“Breath also represents the essential yet often overlooked aspects of life. We hope thatrespiración becomes as indispensable as breath itself in our guests’ lives. That is our vision and our mission.”
From Spain to Ishikawa: A Journey Home
Chef Yagi recounted the pivotal moments of his career: “About 17 years ago, the culinary revolution spearheaded by El Bulli made Spanish cuisine the focal point of global gastronomy. Seeing the innovative dishes in magazines left me awestruck. I resolved to leave Japan to study authentic Spanish cuisine.”
In Spain, Yagi worked at ABaC in Barcelona under the guidance of Chef Xavier Pellicer. “Every Friday, Chef Pellicer challenged us to make the best paella in Barcelona. It wasn’t just practice—it was a rigorous test of flavor and technique. From sautéing and deglazing to extracting the essence of each ingredient, every step required mastery. I learned how to harmonize the flavors of land and sea into a dish that was both bold and balanced.”
Despite the invaluable experiences he gained in Spain, Yagi’s heart remained tied to his hometown. “Ishikawa has an abundance of natural treasures—its mountains and seas are every bit as rich as Spain’s. I decided to return home and apply what I had learned to showcase the unique flavors of Ishikawa’s ingredients.”
38 Years of Friendship: From Kindergarten to Culinary Masters
“We’ve been friends since we were six years old,” Yagi recalled with a smile. “Tatsuro had just moved to Kanazawa from Tokyo, and we instantly clicked. We played basketball, listened to music, and shared similar tastes in movies and books. Later, our mutual love for cooking brought us even closer.”
Ume chimed in: “We had talked about going abroad to train by the time we turned 27. We believed that experiencing the world was crucialin becoming outstanding chefs.”
Although they worked at different restaurants in Spain, the bond between the three friends remained unbreakable. They shared their learnings and challenges through calls and letters. “This friendship has been the driving force behind our efforts.”
The Inspiration Behind the Dishes: Local Ingredients, Global Vision
respiración’s dishes celebrate the richness of Ishikawa’s local ingredients, reimagined through the chefs’ global experiences. Each dish tells a story of their love for their hometown.
This is my second visit torespiración, and their signature dish, “Impact Shrimp,” once again left me in awe. The dish features Ishikawa’s iconic sweet shrimp as its centerpiece. Chef Yagi explained, “Sweet shrimp is one of Ishikawa’s signature ingredients, but no one had ever attempted to create an entire dish based solely on it. Through this dish, we wanted to help people rediscover the charm of sweet shrimp.” Every part of the shrimp is utilized: a crispy base made from shrimp shells and roe, tender raw shrimp, and a translucent jelly crafted from shrimp heads. Finally, the dish is adorned with Kanazawa’s signature gold leaf, making it a sparkling gem of flavor—a true umami bomb.
Impact Shrimp
Next came the Octopus with Spanish Mojo Verde. The octopus is quickly blanched to retain its bouncy texture, paired with Noto seaweed and Kaga cucumber to add a crisp contrast. The Spanish-inspired green sauce is made with king’s herb, citrus, and octopus head, providing a refreshing brightness. A final touch of dill oil enhances the herbal aroma, creating a dish that is both invigorating and appetizing.
Following that was the Turkey with Zucchini, a dish that shines in its meticulous preparation. Zucchini is marinated with blue cheese and sake lees for three days, then seared to a golden brown crust, emitting rich umami and a hint of fermentation. It is paired with tender turkey meatballs, buckwheat crisps, and mugwort oil, offering a delightful range of textures. The turkey meatballs are flavorful and slightly robust, while the zucchini retains its natural sweetness at the core—together, they form a seamless harmony. Another highlight is the Red Squid with Creamy Pumpkin Sauce. The squid is aged for three days, intensifying its sweetness and giving it a firm, springy texture. It is served with a creamy sauce made from yellow tomatoes and pumpkin, which balances sweet and tangy notes. Thinly sliced squid is coated in the sauce, while fresh white shrimp provides a luscious finishing touch.
Equally impressive was the Roasted Eggplant with Bear Meat Ragu. The eggplant is flame-roasted until its skin is golden and crisp, while the interior remains soft and juicy. It is paired with a rich ragu made from bear and beef, topped with a creamy béchamel sauce. The bear meat’s fattiness delivers a pronounced gaminess that contrasts beautifully with the natural sweetness of the eggplant. In this dish, the eggplant truly shines as the star. The beauty of this creation lies in its ability to highlight the inherent flavors of the ingredients while employing highly intricate culinary techniques. The preparation may seem simple, but the complexity in execution is extraordinary.
Another standout dish was the Black Grouper in Ayu and Tomato Broth. The fish and tomato are prepared separately to ensure each reaches its optimal state before being brought together. The tender black grouper is served in a broth made from sweetfish and charred sun-dried tomatoes, which offer a smoky aroma while retaining their juicy, sweet-tart core. On the side, a Spanish-style picada—crumbled bread, almonds, coriander, and other spices—is added to the dish, elevating the broth and fish with an extra layer of texture and flavor.
For the meat course, the Venison with Beets delivered an unforgettable experience. The venison loin was perfectly seared, its interior a vivid pink, tender and juicy. Accompanying this was venison heart, minced and mixed with spices before being fried into fragrant meatballs. The bold gaminess of the meatballs contrasted beautifully with the pureness of the loin. A beet puree added an earthy sweetness, tying the components together into a harmonious whole.
The final savory dish was the Spanish Paella with Oysters. Japanese rice is used in place of traditional Spanish rice, absorbing the richness of the seafood broth. The rice is moist yet retains a slight bite, with a caramelized, crispy surface that adds texture. Topped with oversized, plump oysters, this dish masterfully condenses the essence of land and sea into every bite, earning its place as a true classic.
Paella
For dessert, Noto Cedar presented a delightful surprise. A creamy French blancmange forms the base, infused with the refreshing aroma of Noto cedar. Layers of kiwi compote and matcha cream provide tangy and sweet notes, while the blancmange’s smooth, rich texture melts in the mouth. The second dessert, Corn Ice Cream with Mango, was equally impressive. Corn is charred over an open flame, then wrapped in foil to trap its smoky aroma. The corn is turned into ice cream with complex, layered flavors, served with black sugar corn syrup, fresh mango, and a marigold-infused sauce. It’s finished with crisp dried sunflower petals and a drizzle of 50-year-aged Amontillado sherry—a dessert designed for grown-up palates. Even the petit fours were meticulously crafted, offering a charming and satisfying end to the meal.
The menu, though seemingly concise, delivers an emotional and sensory journey with every dish. It is a format I deeply admire—every element strikes straight to the heart.
Future Vision: Connecting Land and Sea
Looking ahead, Ume expressed a deep hope for the future: “Earlier this year, the Noto region experienced an earthquake and is still recovering. We hope thatrespiración can help bring attention to Ishikawa and share its vitality with the world.”
“In the future, the three of us dream of opening a restaurant on a hill overlooking the sea. We want to create a space where the beauty of nature and the art of cuisine come together, offering our guests a moment of connection and wonder.”
The nearly four-decade friendship that fuelsrespiración is a story of perseverance and passion in a fast-moving world. It’s more than a restaurant—it’s a testament to dreams, teamwork, and the enduring power of a shonen anime brought to life.
Nearly 40 years of friendship in today’s fast-paced world is nothing short of remarkable.
Keisuke Yagi, Tatsuro Ume, Yusuke Kitagawa
Photo: 叶适Ye Shi、respiracion.jp
