Generic selectors
    Exact Matches
    Search in title
    Search in content
    按标题搜寻
    Search in pages

    Refer, a Breeze of Novelty to Beijing’s Culinary world

    One night in Beijing
    It has been five years since I astvisited Beijing. That day was all the more comfortable and sunnier as just a day before there was a sandstorm, which I felt lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the legendary blue sky of the capital city.
     
    Beijing’s buzzling Sanlitun district has seen the rising of Canadian born Talib Hudda, a young chef only 32 years old, and has an impressive resume as a professional. I’ve seen pictures of his dishes, so beautiful that I even had doubts in my head: would that mean presentation comes before taste?

    Talib Hudda

    Environment

    Thereupon, I visited Refer in vigilance. As Western food in Beijing is still tend to be conservative, attempting such a ‘borderless’ Nordic restaurant is not something all investors would do.

    Big streets and city lights of Sanlitun can be overlooked on the balcony of the restaurant. The interior expands nearly 400 square meters, with only five tables and one private dining room. The spacious area and the open kitchen naturally integrate to offer extended visions, just like chef Talib’s experience and the way he cooks.
     
    You probably couldn’t tell where Talib’s from judging by the way he looks, but this may have explained his international approach to his dishes. Defined by many as Beijing’s acclaimed Nordic dining destination, Refer’s dishes have deeper connotations and higher structural complexity, accommodating a variety of dimensions and thus requiring a little more time to fully appreciate. However, ‘borderless’ is a confusing expression in that it makes you wonder what the restaurant’s real strengths are.

     

    Refer Beijing
    Upon entering the restaurant, I was kindly greeted by Refer’s amiable staff and seated in its spacious dining room carefully arranged with Nordic furniture. It was near sunset, and I could still see the afternoon sunlight gently falling onto the vibrantly green lawn as I looked out the window. Maybe I had not been to Beijing for so long and I asked myself, How did I get here? Then Chef Talib came up to me. Unlike his serious-looking face in the photo, he talked with me in cordial hospitality and welcomed me to his domain as if it were his home. The first appetizer was a wonderful combination of caviar, yuzu crème fraiche, lettuce root, pickled onion and lily bulb. The seasoning was ingenious, delicate and elegant as the appearance. My walls began to fall down.
    Inheriting the practice of most top-flight Japanese restaurants, Refer divides the visiting time of diners, meaning the moment you enter the restaurant, you will have all the attention from the staff.
     
    As the waiter led me to have the next course, I entered a bright and comfortable open kitchen full of serious chefs in a top hat shuttling back and forth and working on dishes. Then I saw my table, thinking what an extravagance it was to have only five tables in such a big dining room. I thought to myself, who would be the lucky diners tonight?

    Environment

    Then Talib demonstrated various ingredients and herbs which were going to be used that day. Next course is Caviar Cone, held in a plaster hand-shaped model and consisting crisp seaweed, almond cream, appetizing ponzu and pickled onions. No wonder the food is best served in the kitchen. 
     
    I seemed to understand the logicin his dishes. Talib told me that his good friend and mentor was a Japanese back when he was in Canada, and it was at that time when he found strong interest in Japanese flavours. His dishes are accompanied by two dimensions–texture and layered flavours, with outer appearance taking into account Nordic aesthetic, flavours blended with Chinese and Japanese styles, and techniques using French approach. I think it’s safe to say Talib does have a unique style of his own. Just like every other chef who has their own system of cooking, you could always tell the logic behind.
    The food

    We sat down to dinner. Normally, I wouldn’t comment on bread, but Refer’s delicate bread marked a magnificent entrance. Like Talib’s boundless style, Refer’s range of bread covered styles from Nordic countries, Japan and France: gluten-free baguette, sourdough and Tangzhong milk bread. The pairing butter were French unsalted butter, cultured fresh butter, together with yellow rose fermented honey, which you could only see at a Michelin three-starred restaurant.

    Talib came to my table to mix the yogurt and cream for us. He said this step, known as ‘culture’, is not really fermentation. It works like this: the acid in the yogurt can separate the oil and water in the cream, and the oil separated forms butter. A process similar to how tofu is made, just different chemical reactions. The butter itself had no obvious flavour of yogurt, which was one of a kind.
    The breath-taking dish Sea Garden featured translucent spot prawn mounted on a beautiful silver hairpin blooming with flowers. I don’t particularly like raw prawn, but Refer’s handling was neat and tidy. Bouncy prawns combined with clear tomato broth, Keffir lime and greenish nasturtium, it was refreshing and appetizing with delicate seasoning and cool pleasure.
    The dish Red Puzzle included blue lobster claw, red onion, purple shiso, and watermelon radish. The whole presentation was like Monet’s painting, making you reluctant to devour the masterpiece. You could feel the tender texture and luscious succulence of the blue lobster claw as you chew in the mouth. The combination of ingredients was ingenious: pickled radish instilled freshness into shrimp paste while increasing the depth of flavour and sophistication of techniques and processes. You may find Talib’s dishes often garnished with elemental highlights from Japanese cuisine. 

    Sea Garden | Spot Prawn, Nasturtium, Tomato & Kaffir Lime

    Red Puzzle | Blue Lobster Claw, Red Onion, Purple Shiso, Watermelon Radish

    Next, you’ll find more than six kinds of ingredients and herbs in each of his dishes, some even as many as eight or ten, not including carefully blended sauces. You will be served accordingly as the waiters present each precious plate with professionalism and friendly smiles, and the dining experience is way more joyous than it lets on.

    Then there was this inventive dish that features Chinese mochi (rice cakes) and the grappling ‘little lobster’ – crayfish, China’s seasonal specialty that’s usually spicy and great for casual gatherings. Only Refer’s version is upgraded to be more luxury. Chinese mochi and Canadian lobster coming together, new but without a hint of incongruity. The blissful, harmonious and fresh flavours of the full, fatty lobster and sticky mochi were served with Japanese dashi beurre blanc. A long-standing classic at Refer, this dish is not just loved by Chinese foodies, but suitable for almost every appetite. 

    The lamb chops that day were perfectly cooked and served with a plethora of ingredients such as sunflower seed shouyu, grilled maitake in duck fat, salted turnip, foie gras, bay leaves and duck blanquette. Salted turnip and foie gras were unexpectedly refreshing, bold creation but not overly ornate or disharmonious.  

    Born and raised in a country that’s known for being the mosaic formed by its rich multi-ethnicity culture from China and other Asian countries, Talib has even more in-depth understanding of local ingredients after having spent four years in China. That afternoon in the kitchen, I saw Talib honing over and over again about presentation and dish layout. Grilled maitake mushrooms in duck fat were exuberant of fragrance and slightly crispy in the mouth.

    Dessert was equally stunning. The Berrymisu that combined berries and tiramisu, may sound a bit dated but unexpectedly won my heart. The combination of 72% cacao chocolate, chevre blanc, peanuts and mixed berries creates a multi-layered texture and contrasting flavours. Dessert is supposed to be the most beautiful dish in a course meal, but the Berrymisu, not so outstanding compared to other beautiful dishes, was simple yet delightful.

    Handful of Spring | Sweet Peas, Wasabi, King Crab, Watercress & Pickled White Asparagus

    Foie Gras of the Sea | Monkfish Liver, Sauternes, Seabuckthorn & Lemon Marigold

    The Lobster Dish | Lobster with Mochi & Dashi Beurre Blanc 

    Solo Dover | Sole, Water-chestnut, Mountain Berry & Lemon, Scallop, Fava Bean & Fennel Ragout

    Berrymisu 72% Chocolate, Mixed Berries, Espresso, Chèvre Blanc & Peanut 72%

    I would say I’m happy with most dishes I had that day, especially the expertly-handled seafood. Lobsters and scallops all had a slightly transparent centre, and lobster claws had a soft and fibrous texture. Talib’s seafood dishes are ornate but his solid skills of cooking have preserved the freshness of the ingredients.

    Refer’s extensive use of pickling is a common food preserving technique in Nordic countries, but it perhaps is more entrenched and has a longer history in Chinese cuisine. A closer look at Refer’s dishes reveals a fusion of Chinese and Japanese styles. Chinese specialty like sweet bean sauce and asparagus lettuce, as well as Japanese ingredients and dashi soups, are easily found here. After all, Japanese food has become a global culinary phenomenon.

    Apart from local farm contractors supplying fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs, Refer has capitalized on its reliable sources to procure seasonal, premium-quality ingredients from around the world. The strategy is not strictly farm-to-table, but the dual trajectory has enabled Talib to make his dishes dynamic and more diversified.

     

    Nordic Aesthetics , Asian Soul

    Interestingly, Talib’s borderless cooking is indeed hard to define, which may have some traces reflected in his origins and cosmopolitan life experiences. Born in a family that mixes many different countries around the world, including his Indian grandparents, the Canadian-born chef has been passionate about cooking since early childhood. He started cooking with his grandmother at the tender age of six, helping hands in restaurant kitchens at 14 and enrolling into culinary school when he was only 18 years old. After graduation, he started his career working at well-known restaurants around the world and took strict tutorage under several celebrated chefs.

    He has since worked in acclaimed restaurants around the world, including Marchal in Copenhagen, where he worked with Ronny Emborg and helped the restaurant earn its first Michelin star. Ronni Mortensen was his co-worker at Marv & Ben in the same city. To broaden his culinary horizons, he also ventured to New York for short stints at the city’s most famous eateries, Café Boulud and Eleven Madison Park.

    Talib approaches his cuisine with skilful sophistication and refined maturity, partially thanks to his early experience running chores in restaurant kitchens. Being a 32-year-old young chef, he already has experience cooking for almost 20 years. Many would assume Refer is a Scandinavian restaurant judging by its overarching presentation and culinary style. If I had to categorise it, I would think Refer’s appearance and presentation take reference from Nordic cuisines, yet there is a subtlety in the details between it and Geranium.

    Though not having worked with chef Rasmus at Geranium, Talib did work with its sous chef–Ronni Mortensen for a year. That’s probably the reason why Talib takes on his restaurant in a similar approach. Talib shared that what he learned from Ronni was more about managing and operating. Chefs at Refer wear high hats, something not often seen in many neo-Nordic restaurants, perhaps because of their Bocuse d’Or background. Despite being upscale and elegant, Refer executes some of the warmest and most gracious dishes you will ever experience, with just the right amount of seafood and meat for a hearty meal.

    Talib sometimes can get competitive, perhaps best demonstrated by the complexity of his dishes. Building on his substantial working experience and personal ideas, Talib has incorporated his four-year Chinese experience into his cooking, honoring local flavours and bringing extra warmth to the dining experience.

    Never one to shy away from a challenge, Talib seized the opportunity to make his mark at the BC Team Hot Competition in Canada, taking two awards from 2009 to 2014. He also made presence at the Salon Culinaire Mondial in Switzerland and represented Canada at the most prestigious culinary competition in the world, the Bocuse d’Or in 2011.

    Chef Talib Hudda

    Talib first moved to Beijing when he was invited to become the executive chef at The Georg by the silverware brand Georg Jensen in 2015. Despite it being his first posting in Asia, he thrived in Beijing’s booming fine dining scene and helped The Georg earn several prestigious accolades for its Nordic cuisine. Later he returned to Copenhage to further his studies at the Michelin two-starred restaurant Alchemist 2.0 before starting his own business in 2020.

    Talib Hudda has spent time in many cities around the world and his family’s multi-ethnicity background has given him international values. When asked why his style eventually veered towards Nordic cuisine, he said two years’ experience in Copenhagen had a great impact on him, not just the way locals cook, but his own aesthetics. 

    Beauty with soul

    I asked him if he felt upset about his dishes being called Nordic cuisine, and he said he didn’t want Refer to be clearly defined. Just like the meaning of ‘refer’, ingredients, techniques, aesthetic concepts, anything could become references to inspire creativity. What’s more, he has solid cooking techniques and mature ideas despite of his gentle age. Inspired by many culinary treasures around the globe, he has managed to keep his own boundaries well in place, borderless but substantially real. But for a restaurant, marketing-wise, using such term as ‘borderless’ is a bit of a risk.

    Talib Hudda’s sense of aesthetic wows you and is one of his most valuable treasure. I have been thinking that aesthetic sense has long been neglected by many chefs. Without it, one’s feeling of inferiority would prompt copying behaviours. Therefore, it’s not uncommon to see similar aesthetics prevail in many restaurants. But Refer’s aesthetic has a distinctive identity, with minimalist aesthetics exuding from its porcelain tableware to details of the dishes.

    Prior to meeting Talib in person, he appeared to be a serious man in photographs, but he was very affectionate in person. During the meeting, I could sense he and his wife have strong bonds with each other. The vessel used for Caviar Cone is a plaster hand model of his and his wife’s hands.

    I asked his wife if she felt it was a sacrifice to help Talibrun the restaurant. She said she loved the job there and thanked Talib for being extraordinary in so many ways. She just felt lucky to have Talib in the business. I seemed to catch smiles on their happy faces.

    Refer’s interpretation of beauty is not often seen in China. The restaurant has only five tables and one private room, and yes they are hard to secure. But the configuration can help maintain consistency. A Michelin-grade example, well, a solid two stars I’d say.

    Picking Flower | Black Currant Ganache, Waxberry Lavender & Pansies

    Environment

    Having captured common ground between Nordic cuisine and his own aesthetic value, Talib instils open-mindedness and expertise into his cooking, with multicultural approaches and wide-ranging seasonal produce and techniques from different regions such as China and Japan. Many chefs talk about creativity, but more or less lack ingenuity. Refer’s cuisine may be hard to define, but it’s loaded with the chef’s focus and personal style. Dining at Refer would possibly end up feeling overwhelmed by its gastronomic sensation and unique aesthetic.

    Talib’s journey to where he is now may have been tagged with ups and downs, but this has in return forged a resilient soul in his cooking, allowing his experiences, ideas and values to become precious works.

    For Western restaurants in the capital city of Beijing, Refer is a unique experience and a breeze of novelty. I look forward to seeing Talib reshape the restaurant’s culinary direction with a more refined, creative approach.

    Refer

    📍5th Floor, Building No.8, TaiKooLi North Chaoyang, Beijing

    🏷Official WeChat:restaurantrefer

    Reprint or other cooperation matters

    Please contact WeChat account:tastytrip2020


     

    Welcome to follow us

    Weibo:TastyTrip

    Instagram:_tastytrip_

     

    (Visited 118 times, 1 visits today)
    Read previous post:
    全球餐饮动态:Eleven Madison Park将转型素食餐厅 ;世界50最佳餐厅比利时颁奖

    2021亚洲50酒吧公布 大中华区共17家入选;美三星Eleven Madison Park转型素食餐厅

    Close