What, then, is the essence of Slovenian cuisine? Nestled in the heart of Europe, Slovenia shares borders with Italy, Austria, Hungary, and Croatia. Due to its geographic position, the country’s cuisine reflects a harmonious blend of flavors from its neighboring nations, particularly Italy.
Over the years, Hiša Franko has undergone notable transformations. What transpired before and after the pandemic?
Ana Roš candidly explains that the pandemic changed everything for everyone. During the two years the restaurant was closed, neither she nor her team could foresee what the future would hold. In that period, the restaurant was open for just two months. For the rest of the time, Ana and her team had to figure out how to survive.
She openly acknowledges that the most profound change at Hiša Franko began around 2017-2018, particularly after the Netflix series aired and she was named Best Female Chef. This brought immense pressure from both the media and customers, requiring the restaurant to adopt a more structured approach. Prior to this, Ana was the central figure, controlling every aspect. But as things evolved, she realized the need to delegate responsibilities and build a team she could wholly trust. She regards this shift as the most significant change since 2017.
During the restaurant’s closure, the entire team remained on-site. Ana Roš took the opportunity to lead training sessions and initiate a remarkable project to support local farmers. They immersed themselves in extensive research on regional products and techniques. By the time the restaurant reopened in 2020, the menu had reached an unparalleled level of excellence, a far cry from what it had been seven years earlier.
In June 2020, Hiša Franko was awarded two Michelin stars, marking the first time Michelin had recognized Slovenia. Two and a half years later, following the change in head chefs from Leonardo Franca to the current American chef, Yvonne Simone, the restaurant was honored with its third star. Ana Roš notes how swiftly these achievements unfolded. During this period, the restaurant also earned a Michelin Green Star, effectively collecting nearly every accolade possible.
Ana Roš reflects that her motivation is not driven by awards. What matters most to her is the experience of the guests and the continual growth of her team. She finds joy in the work itself, believing that the satisfaction of doing meaningful work far outweighs any ranking or number of stars. She considers all the honors as the result of her team’s dedication. While the joy of receiving a third Michelin star was undeniable, she acknowledges the immense responsibility that comes with it—responsibility not just to the Michelin inspectors, but to the guests who come with heightened expectations. It is their effort to reach Hiša Franko, often traveling great distances, that represents her and her team’s greatest responsibility.
When it comes to the restaurant’s accomplishments, Ana and the team are not in a rush to seek more. There remains plenty of room to work on the business side. She mentions that people often ask her, “What is it like to have three stars?” But another question is, “How do you maintain three stars?” as Michelin stars can certainly be lost. The third star has been a tremendous source of motivation, proving that the team is performing at an exceptional level. “No one wants to lose that star,” she says, “so the work remains as demanding as ever.”
Ana Roš firmly believes that she and her team have consistently adhered to a cooking philosophy rooted in local ingredients. Compared to 2018, the scope of local suppliers the restaurant collaborates with has expanded significantly. With a larger team, they are able to conduct more research, refine their dishes, and improve the overall quality of their preparations.
During this visit, the first three small bites were remarkably fresh and light. The focus was on delicate seasoning and showcasing local ingredients. The dish “Fresh Vegetables, Brown Butter Emulsion, Quail Egg, Istrian Summer Truffle” elegantly highlights local and seasonal produce, bringing together the freshness of vegetables, the richness of brown butter emulsion, and the delicate flavor of quail egg, all complemented by the earthy aroma of Istrian summer truffles. Another dish, “Celeriac, Crab, Foraged Greens, Mustard Seeds,” offered a refreshing contrast, with the crisp, subtly sweet taste of celeriac paired with the delicate, briny crab meat. “Wild Plants, Cottage Cheese, and Dried Fruits” was equally delightful, offering herbal notes and a mild bitterness balanced by the richness of the cheese, while the dried fruits contributed natural sweetness and texture—a dish both fresh and rich.
Garden leaves, brown butter emulsion, quail egg. Istrian summer truffle
Celeriac, crab, foraged greens, mustard seeds
One dish that particularly struck me was Ana Roš’s “One-Euro Potato,” which carries profound respect for local farmers and speaks to the trust she shares with them. The dish is simple yet deeply meaningful. Ana never bargains with farmers. When discussing the price of potatoes with a farmer who grows them in the mountains, she requested a specific size. The farmer asked her, “How much should they cost?” She replied, “You decide.” The farmer proposed, “One euro per potato, how does that sound?” Ana agreed. This dish embodies her approach to working with farmers. The potatoes are served with a salt shell, changing slightly each year. This year, they are paired with sour cream and honey, which is emblematic of Slovenia, a leading producer of honey.
The dish also includes roasted yeast. When served, diners break open the hay shell and inhale its fragrance, which transports them to the mountain where the potatoes were grown—a place where cows graze in the summer and where the farmers once slept on hay beds. The potatoes carry a subtle hay aroma and are of exceptional quality. Paired with whipped sour cream and honey, this simple dish becomes one of the restaurant’s highlights.
Hay baked potato, fenugreek de roasted yeast infused sour cream
Whenever the team travels, Ana Roš always brings this potato dish with them. It often surprises outsiders, who not only enjoy the potatoes but also come to appreciate the deeper meaning of life in the mountain world.
Another classic dish, “Corn Beignet, Fermented Cottage Cheese, Smoked Trout Roe,” reinterprets Slovenia’s traditional “Polenta,” once consumed by shepherds in the mountains. In Hiša Franko’s version, the crispy exterior is replaced by trout roe, wrapped in wild chives, and served alongside fermented cheese. The polenta is reimagined as a crispy element on top. The rich cheese melds with the salty, smoky roe, while the airy, fried polenta provides texture—an exquisite fusion of tradition and modernity.
Corn beignet, fermented cottage cheese, smoked trout roe
The pasta dishes are equally impressive, combining light textures with the finesse of local ingredients. “Tagliolini, Razor Clams, and Melon” is a delicate pasta, topped with a sauce that envelops the razor clams and melon. The razor clams are tender and juicy, bringing out the umami of the sea, while the melon adds a refreshing, sweet note—perfectly balanced and light.
Tagliolini, razor clams and melon
Another dish, “Orzotto, Puffed Barley, Goat Cheese Water, Green Beans, Black Truffles,” evokes the flavors of an Italian risotto. The roasted barley lends a nutty flavor, complemented by the freshness of green beans and mushrooms, while the black truffle adds a rich earthiness. The barley grains provide a satisfying crunch, making this dish as texturally exciting as it is delicious.
Orzotto, puffed barley. Goat cheese water, green beans, black truffles
A standout main course, “Venison, Oysters, and Kiwi,” offers a wonderful contrast. The venison is tender, with a delicate blood-red center, while the unexpected pairing of oysters and kiwi creates a delightful harmony. The oysters’ briny umami is brightened by the tartness of the kiwi, making for a surprising and delightful combination.
Roebuck, oyster, kiwi
When reflecting on destination restaurants, Ana Roš believes they carry a unique charm and are never confined to their comfort zones. The region surrounding Hiša Franko is deeply influenced by the weather, the seasons, and local suppliers, which makes the restaurant highly seasonal, with the busiest period from April to October. In winter, the team focuses on various internal and external projects.
Ana views destination restaurants as carrying a greater responsibility. In cities, people can simply take a taxi to a restaurant. But reaching Hiša Franko often requires a long journey. “I feel my responsibility towards the guests is bigger,” she says, “The storytelling is different. A destination restaurant is right to have a tasting menu because the storytelling starts with the first bite and ends with the last bite.”
Seven years after my initial visit, I am once again in awe of Hiša Franko’s evolution, particularly in its exceptional use of local ingredients, vegetables, and wild game. Every dish has been meticulously crafted, and Hiša Franko feels like a rebirth—a transformation beyond comparison.
Author: Jocelyn 华姐
