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Ana Roš, the price of visibility, and a proposal from China
By luck, I landed in Singapore just before the typhoon arrived, and checked into the legendary Raffles Hotel.
My first visit to Txispa began with a drive deep into a quiet valley in the Basque Country. Surrounded by mountains, it felt as though I had entered another world.
The last time I sat in this seat, I watched the same fountain show. Back then this place was called Wing Lei Palace, and Chef Tam Kwok Fung was in the kitchen.
On the top floor of Yuejie Yongjia Court, at 570 Yongjia Road in Shanghai, the elevator doors open with a soft ding on the fourth floor. Just inside, a low sofa sits beside a fireplace, while a wall of windows is cradled by the green embrace of plane trees. Their shadows sway across the wooden floor, and for a moment, you can't help but think: what a perfect afternoon.
The foie gras raspberry lollipop was my first impression of Amber. Rich, silken foie gras melted on the tongue like chocolate, while the sweetness of raspberry unfurled slowly in the finish, brightening the overall richness of the dish. The two melded together in the mouth and turned impossibly light.
Private members' clubs are having revivals. Once cigar-filled, men-only enclaves, they have become daily haunts for the creative class. The pandemic was the turning point. When lockdowns ended, people craved face-to-face connection again. Entrepreneurs and freelancers began treating these "third spaces" as offices — working there by day, staying on for talks and gatherings at night. No conversation about this kind of space can leave out Soho House. Founded in London in 1995, the brand set itself apart from old-school gentlemen's clubs from day one — no bankers or lawyers, only people from media, film, and design. Three decades on, it operates more than 40 houses worldwide, and membership itself works as a social calling card. It has largely defined what the modern members' club looks like: judged by circle, not pedigree; work by day, socialize by night. In 2019, Soho House opened in Sheung Wan — the brand's first outpost in East Asia, in a property founder Nick Jones spent a decade searching for. An entire 28-story office tower was converted into the club, the largest in the world at the time of opening.
For the first time, the Michelin Guide for Shanghai, Jiangsu, and Zhejiang has been released as a combined edition.
Food Column
It was only recently that I began to think seriously about the name “Chef No Table.”
Ana Roš, the price of visibility, and a proposal from China
I spent a few days in Singapore last month. Before leaving, I was already thinking about going back to Meta.
On my first visit to Vivant since it received its Michelin star, the dining room was full and alive with movement. It felt as though the restaurant had secured a place at the forefront of Shanghai’s rising French fine-dining scene. Vivant was busy yet composed, with none of the rigidity of a fixed performance. The front-of-house team was elegant and assured; the cooking was precise, the mood relaxed. We passed between two walls of wine, then an open, silver-toned kitchen, before sitting down beneath a retro arched ceiling.
The last time I sat in this seat, I watched the same fountain show. Back then this place was called Wing Lei Palace, and Chef Tam Kwok Fung was in the kitchen.
On the top floor of Yuejie Yongjia Court, at 570 Yongjia Road in Shanghai, the elevator doors open with a soft ding on the fourth floor. Just inside, a low sofa sits beside a fireplace, while a wall of windows is cradled by the green embrace of plane trees. Their shadows sway across the wooden floor, and for a moment, you can't help but think: what a perfect afternoon.
One of Taipei's most anticipated restaurant openings of the year is Polux, the casual French restaurant by Chef Paul Pairet, whose Shanghai flagship has long been one of the city's hottest tables to book. The restaurant also marks the Taiwanese debut of the chef behind the three-Michelin-starred Ultraviolet, which closed in March 2025 after redefining modern gastronomy for more than a decade.
The foie gras raspberry lollipop was my first impression of Amber. Rich, silken foie gras melted on the tongue like chocolate, while the sweetness of raspberry unfurled slowly in the finish, brightening the overall richness of the dish. The two melded together in the mouth and turned impossibly light.
Gourmet News
1 「三星掌門人」回歸 譚仕業重掌上海唐閣 來源:@上海新天地朗廷酒店 2026年10月23日,上海新天地朗廷 […]