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In the recently released Michelin Guide Tokyo 2026, one familiar name popped up in the list of new one-star restaurants—and I nearly jumped out of my chair in delight.
I’ve always loved trying fusion cuisine, but sometimes it goes wrong—novelty for novelty’s sake. Crony is the opposite: rooted firmly in French technique, showcasing Japanese produce, and taking inspiration from Nordic elements.
In a recent conversation with a chef, I casually asked, “How have things been lately?” He responded with a faint, weary smile, then quietly began talking about the pressure he had been under.
I remember my first visit to Den in Tokyo—it was still at the old location in Jimbocho, before the move to Jingumae.From earning two Michelin stars, losing one, regaining two, to watching its fluctuating rankings on the World’s 50 Best list, I’ve witnessed Den go through many stages over the years.
“This is the kind of Italian cuisine you can only experience in Japan,” I thought to myself. This was at Il Ristorante - Luca Fantin
Located in Sanjo, Niigata, Uozen stands quietly amidst rice fields and rural landscapes. It was once a traditional Japanese eatery run by Chef Inoue’s father-in-law. In 2013, the couple took over the space and transformed it into a French restaurant rooted in the land’s essence.
Taian Table is currently one of the only two Michelin three-star restaurants in Shanghai, a recognition that owes much to the relentless efforts of Stefan Stiller over two decades in China.
I first visited Slovenia in 2018, and I still vividly recall the crystalline streams that meandered through the valley, leaving an indelible impression. Seven years later, I returned, this time driving from Udine, Italy. In less than an hour, we found ourselves once again at Hiša Franko.
Restaurants
In the recently released Michelin Guide Tokyo 2026, one familiar name popped up in the list of new one-star restaurants—and I nearly jumped out of my chair in delight.
If you have ever come to Komatsu in Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan, it was probably just to transfer on your way to Kanazawa nearby. This time, however, I did the opposite — I took a half-hour train ride from Kanazawa to Komatsu Station, then drove another 20 minutes into the mountains, all for one purpose: Auberge eaufeu. (Directly from Komatsu Airport, it’s about a 30-minute drive.)
Crowned five times as the world’s best restaurant, Noma held a four-day guest residency in Taipei from August 8–11, set against the lush backdrop of YMS by onefifteen on Yangmingshan. Once a 1950s dormitory compound, YMS has preserved its mid-century modernist architecture while weaving together natural scenery, art curation, and gastronomy—an oasis on the city’s edge. Within its grounds, Lab 10 and Restaurant 12 are the first to open, offering respectively a contemporary tea experience and a seafood-focused menu rooted in local waters.
In July, I visited “Ginza Kojyu,” a two-Michelin-star kaiseki restaurant in the fiercely competitive culinary district of Ginza, Tokyo. Located on the fourth floor of a building amidst Ginza’s glittering facades, its discreet signage is easy to miss if you’re not looking closely.
When the elevator doors opened, a different world unfolded — a small garden with stone paths led me to the counter seats. Chef Toru Okuda, with his gentle demeanor and calm presence, greeted us from behind a 700-year-old hinoki cypress counter. After a brief exchange of pleasantries, he surprised us by bringing out hamo (pike conger), a prized summer fish, and began skillfully performing the traditional honegiri (bone-cutting) technique right in front of our eyes.In 2024, one restaurant made gelato its star — MINIMAL — and stood out for making gelato its central offering, becoming the world’s only Michelin one-star gelato specialty shop. Its achievement has drawn curious eyes from around the globe.
The phenomenon of luxury brands stepping into the dining world is gaining momentum globally. From flagship cafés to Michelin-starred collaborations, these ventures blend haute couture with haute cuisine, but do they truly result in a win-win synergy between brand and chef, or is the harmony more elusive than it seems?
I’ve always loved trying fusion cuisine, but sometimes it goes wrong—novelty for novelty’s sake. Crony is the opposite: rooted firmly in French technique, showcasing Japanese produce, and taking inspiration from Nordic elements.
In a recent conversation with a chef, I casually asked, “How have things been lately?” He responded with a faint, weary smile, then quietly began talking about the pressure he had been under.
Gourmet News
1 全球米其林酒店指南揭曉 中國2家獲三星鑰 來源:米其林指南 2025 年 10 月 8 日,米其林酒店星鑰 […]