Upon my recent return to Shanghai, I find myself constantly swept away by business trips, seldom staying for more than ten days. In such fleeting moments, I gravitate toward the familiar comforts of old favorites. Yet, my attention was irresistibly drawn to Fook Wo Kwong, a Cantonese restaurant that opened last year. Strictly speaking, this establishment is an old wine in a new bottle, with the kitchen and front-of-house teams hailing from the now-closed Seventh Son (Pudong Shangri-la).
Stepping into Fook Wo Kwong, one is immediately enveloped by an expansive sense of space, as though transported to a different era. The walls are adorned with vintage photographs, each capturing the golden years of Hong Kong and evoking a wave of nostalgic sentiment. The service and dishes unfurl with a seamless grace, accompanied by the warm, sincere greetings of General Manager Michael Cheung.
Who wouldn’t want to enjoy flawless dim sum for lunch? Steamed shrimp dumplings, vegetarian dumplings, spring rolls, deep-fried sticky rice dumplings, and pan-fried turnip cake with preserved sausage all arrive one by one. Whether steamed or fried, each dish exceeds expectations. The vegetarian dumplings, filled with fresh seasonal vegetables, are steamed to a translucent perfection. The crispy spring rolls, a classic of Cantonese dim sum, are evenly crisp with a filling of fresh shrimp and tender chicken. The pan-fried turnip cakes, with their golden exterior and soft, chewy interior, retain the natural sweetness of the turnip. Of course, the daily soup is a must.
The signaturebarbecued whole suckling pig is prepared with traditional charcoal roasting, its skin crisp and golden, while the meat remains tender and succulent—an exquisite rendition that has even managed to overshadow my long-standing affection for Beijing roast duck. Another standout is the signature crispy chicken, with its golden, deep-fried skin and juicy, tender meat, made even more irresistible by the house-made sauce, which lingers on the palate.
Barbecued whole suckling pig
crispy chicken
Other beloved dishes, such as the bamboo shoots and lamb stew, as well as the fresh winter bamboo shoots with pea shoots, also left a lasting impression. The lamb stew, slow-cooked to perfection, produces a rich and flavorful broth, with the lamb tender and devoid of any gamey taste, offering a comforting sense of warmth. The winter bamboo shoots with pea shoots are fresh and crisp, an invigorating contrast. Additionally, the Chaozhou-style giant frozen crab, with its firm, sweet meat, and the tofu braised with grouper—fusion dishes that blend seafood with traditional Cantonese techniques—demonstrate the exceptional versatility of Cantonese cuisine.
the bamboo shoots
tofu braised with grouper
Fook Wo Kwong showcases not only a profound understanding of tradition but also a delicate and modern touch. Every dish is crafted with precision, a reflection of the expertise of two key figures—Executive Chef Peng Huayou and General Manager Michael Cheung. Their decades of experience breathe life into the restaurant, creating a space that both honors the past and looks toward the future, embodying the true essence of Cantonese fine dining.
Chef Peng Huayou
Chef Peng Huayou has devoted over 40 years to the art of Cantonese cuisine. His culinary journey began under the influence of his family, before expanding to international horizons in Australia and Japan, where he accumulated rich experience. He has also left his mark in renowned establishments such as Fook Lam Moon in Hong Kong and thePudong Shangri-la Seventh Son. Though Chef Peng may appear stern at first glance, he speaks with great passion when discussing his craft. He is a staunch advocate for the core principles of Cantonese cuisine, emphasizing the freshness of ingredients and the refinement of traditional techniques. He believes that innovation must be rooted in a deep understanding of tradition, and that only by perfecting the classics can one venture into the realm of creative evolution.
General Manager Michael Cheung
General Manager Michael Cheung, who joined Fook Lam Moon in 1985, was tasked with managing the Shanghai branch in 2005. After navigating the challenges of brand division and the pandemic, he had considered retirement. However, at the heartfelt request of loyal patrons, he and his team partnered with new owners to reopen Fook Wo Kwong in late 2022. Michael notes that the inclusion of the word “Fook” in the restaurant’s name is both a tribute to Fook Lam Moon and a symbol of their vision for the future—one that strives to offer guests a dining experience that is both familiar and warmly inviting.
Both Michael and Chef Peng are united in the belief that fine dining should evoke the warmth of home, rather than the cold, imposing nature of luxury.
From the careful selection of ingredients to the attentive, personable service, Fook Wo Kwong offers a moment of sunshine, even amidst the chill of winter.
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Photo: Fook Wo Kwong, Ye Shi
